oceanography pg17.html

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<strong>Ocean Waves: </strong></U>
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></B>Waves are wind driven - local winds can conflict with the long-range waves and white<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">caps result.<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Waves are true stirring mechanisms of the sea especially in upper layers<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Wave Nomenclature<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">L = length A = Amplitude Trough<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">H= height Train Crest<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Wave period - time in seconds for one complete wave to pass<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Amplihide (1/2 h)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Velocity: L/T =C (C = Velocity) C = Celerity<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Fetch: distance + direction unimpeded<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1"><strong>Inner Wave Motion:<FONT size="+1"> </strong></P
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><FONT size="+1">Gyral within wave: orbital - elliptical motion seldom felt below 100 feet below surface<FONT size="+1"><br>
Why a wave breaks: Translation wave @ surf zone<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">1. Wave molecules are compressed from sphere to ellipse by contact with the<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">submarine surface<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">2. Crest of wave is greater than 120 degrees<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">3. Obstructions of topography<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Wave height in storm: Atlantic 25 @ 50 feet (max)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Pacific 112 feet (max)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Rogue wave 100 feet = Perfect storm edge wave<FONT size="+1">