1. Capillary Wave: small ripple rim (round crest & trough)
Wind less than 11.4 km
2. Gravity Wave-mass of H20 depleted
Sea - clear as glass - no perceptive wind
In lab 6 km needed to generate wave, which in nature only 1.4 km needed
3. Translation Wave - to wave when up on beach
Spilling, Surging, Plunging relation to beach slope and sediment on beach slope
Tidal Bore: Where oncoming wave is confined to a narrow opening or inlet
Wave is produced
1. St. Malo France - 39 feet (Dam & Hydro power here)
2. Bay of Fundy (50 - 66 feet)
Seiche Wave: Wall ofH20 force up by wind and released
(like a bath tub) phenomenon in large lakes
Lake Geneva and Cherepeake Bay
Methods of Computing Drift
Drift is slower than current
1. Fix position and measure from land
2. Floating object referenced(Floatsam)
3. Drift bottles (wind assist)
4. Ship drift from celestial navigation
5. Ekman Current meter
Speed flow direction
Propeller faces current
Importance of Currents is to Climate and Weather - World Wide moderator and mover
HzO greatest heat ability of all liquids except ammonia (NH3)
(Cold Benguela current & cold Peru current)
(Lima Peru close to the equator never goes over 90 degrees)
Current Change
In Northern Winter easterly flowing winter current goes from equator to Peru
Warm H2O current rather
Than cold: Marine life
Dies: fouls are and I-H2O and H2S
H2S: Ships hulls
"Callao Painter"
Discuss chincha Island Nitrate Beds (Fertilizer & Gunpowder)
"Guano birds die as sea on Chincha Islands as no food"
Kuroshio: Japan Current that is warm
North to northeast (Oyashio is cold Japanese current)
So branch east to Hawaii
No branch mixes with cold Oyashio
Indian Ocean & Monsoon
In summer: winds blow onto India: Currents flow to India
In winter: winds blow dry sand of Gobi desert - currents flow away from continent