oceanography pg23.html

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<B><strong>Wave Types: </U>
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></B>1. Capillary Wave: small ripple rim (round crest &amp; trough)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Wind less than 11.4 km<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">2. Gravity Wave-mass of H20 depleted<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Sea - clear as glass - no perceptive wind<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">In lab 6 km needed to generate wave, which in nature only 1.4 km needed<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">3. Translation Wave - to wave when up on beach<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Spilling, Surging, Plunging relation to beach slope and sediment on beach slope<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Tidal Bore: Where oncoming wave is confined to a narrow opening or inlet<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Wave is produced<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">1. St. Malo France - 39 feet (Dam &amp; Hydro power here)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">2. Bay of Fundy (50 - 66 feet)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Seiche Wave: Wall ofH20 force up by wind and released<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">(like a bath tub) phenomenon in large lakes<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Lake Geneva and Cherepeake Bay<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Methods of Computing Drift<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Drift is slower than current<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">1. Fix position and measure from land<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">2. Floating object referenced(Floatsam)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">3. Drift bottles (wind assist)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">4. Ship drift from celestial navigation<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">5. Ekman Current meter<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Speed flow direction<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Propeller faces current<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Importance of Currents is to Climate and Weather - World Wide moderator and mover<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">HzO greatest heat ability of all liquids except ammonia (NH3)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">(Cold Benguela current &amp; cold Peru current)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">(Lima Peru close to the equator never goes over 90 degrees)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><U><FONT size="+1"><B>Current Change </U></P
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></B>In Northern Winter easterly flowing winter current goes from equator to Peru<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Warm H2O current rather<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Than cold: Marine life<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Dies: fouls are and I-H2O and H2S<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">H2S: Ships hulls<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">&quot;Callao Painter&quot;<FONT size="+1"> <br />
Discuss chincha Island Nitrate Beds (Fertilizer &amp; Gunpowder)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">&quot;Guano birds die as sea on Chincha Islands as no food&quot;<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Kuroshio: Japan Current that is warm<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">North to northeast (Oyashio is cold Japanese current)<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">So branch east to Hawaii<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">No branch mixes with cold Oyashio<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Indian Ocean &amp; Monsoon<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">In summer: winds blow onto India: Currents flow to India<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">In winter: winds blow dry sand of Gobi desert - currents flow away from continent<FONT size="+1">