Shore - land sea interface affected by waves
Coast = Ocean environment
On, Off, Near, Fore, Back
Swash/ Backwash
Waves - Wind/Storm 1.2 knots
Sea vs. swell
Wave Nomenclature
Wave Train 1-7
Depth 'A length = deep H20 wave
Waves not felt below 100 ft.
Submariners don't get seasick
Plunging, surging, spilling = breaker/beach type
Mud, Sand, Gravel
Long shore current and drift
Undertow
Seiche
Bore
Tsunami
Storm surge
Note in low pressure storms - pressure release causes sea surface rise of - +3ft. - + 30 -
35 ft. from wind driven h20 - (New Orleans + 40 ft.) - Reason for great damage.
Tides @ SME Relationship
Diurnal
Semi-diurnal
Mixed
BayofFundy-50+ft.
Ocean currents & Planetary winds
Eustacy vs. Isostacy
Wisconsin Sea Level Rise - 20,000, yago
Tidal bench and shore platform
Translation
Breaker