Shore - land sea interface affected by waves

Coast = Ocean environment

On, Off, Near, Fore, Back

Swash/ Backwash

Waves - Wind/Storm 1.2 knots

Sea vs. swell

Wave Nomenclature

Wave Train 1-7

Depth 'A length = deep H20 wave

Waves not felt below 100 ft.

Submariners don't get seasick

Plunging, surging, spilling = breaker/beach type

Mud, Sand, Gravel

Long shore current and drift

Undertow

Seiche

Bore

Tsunami

Storm surge

Note in low pressure storms - pressure release causes sea surface rise of - +3ft. - + 30 -

35 ft. from wind driven h20 - (New Orleans + 40 ft.) - Reason for great damage.

Tides @ SME Relationship

Diurnal

Semi-diurnal

Mixed

BayofFundy-50+ft.

Ocean currents & Planetary winds

Eustacy vs. Isostacy

Wisconsin Sea Level Rise - 20,000, yago

Tidal bench and shore platform

Translation

Breaker