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Geomorphology Weely Notes 2-1.htm

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<META
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 content="2009-08-13T10:04:18-04:00" >
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><FONT size="+1" color="#000000"></B>Shore - land sea interface affected by waves<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Coast = Ocean environment<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">On, Off, Near, Fore, Back<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Swash/ Backwash<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Waves - Wind/Storm 1.2 knots<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Sea vs. swell<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Wave Nomenclature<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><P 
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><FONT size="+1">Wave Train 1-7<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Depth 'A length = deep H20 wave<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Waves not felt below 100 ft.<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Submariners don't get seasick<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Plunging, surging, spilling = breaker/beach type<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Mud, Sand, Gravel<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Long shore current and drift<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Undertow<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Seiche<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Bore<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Tsunami<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Storm surge<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Note in low pressure storms - pressure release causes sea surface rise of - +3ft. - + 30 -<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">35 ft. from wind driven h20 - (New Orleans + 40 ft.) - Reason for great damage.<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Tides @ SME Relationship<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Diurnal<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Semi-diurnal<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Mixed<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">BayofFundy-50+ft.<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Ocean currents &amp; Planetary winds<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Eustacy vs. Isostacy<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Wisconsin Sea Level Rise - 20,000, yago<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Tidal bench and shore platform<FONT size="+1"> </P
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><FONT size="+1">Translation</P
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>Breaker</P
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